Zenith 2025 Novelties
Zenith: a blue tribute to the father of the house movement
One of the most respected Swiss watchmakers, Zenith, is celebrating its 160th anniversary. It is best known to watch enthusiasts for the El-Primero model, which was the first watch with a mass-produced automatic chronograph movement. This was a turning point in the development of modern watchmaking. Their rich history begins in 1865, and by the time the El-Primero was introduced, they had already achieved a number of high watchmaking successes.
Zenith G.F.J. with legendary calibre
Zenith was founded by Georges Favre-Jacot, which explains the three letters on the dial of the newly launched timepiece. He popularised the term “in-house movement”, which has gained more and more popularity in recent years and is used in the watchmaking industry as a synonym for quality and perfection.
In 1945, one of their watchmakers was tasked with developing a movement that could compete in the most prestigious observatory competitions. He designed the calibre 135 with a unique gear arrangement. The calibre 135-O version eventually won over 230 awards for best chronometry – more than any other movement in the history of watchmaking.
For the first time since 1962, Zenith has produced the legendary calibre 135, which, despite being refreshed, retains the historical architecture and dimensions of the original. The heart of the movement continues to beat at 2.5 vibrations per second (2.5Hz), and the power reserve has been increased from 40 to 72 hours. The revived movement boasts a COSC certificate and ensures accuracy within +/- two seconds per day.
In addition to the movement, the blue dial impresses. The central circle is made of blue lapis lazuli, which is sprinkled with natural pyrite. On the outer ring, it is complemented by a guilloché pattern, which is also visible on the engraving of the movement on the back of the timepiece. The mother-of-pearl seconds dial provides an interplay of colours with a lighter shade of blue at the bottom. The hands, as well as the minute hands and hour indicators, are carefully applied to the dial by hand – just as they did decades ago.
Blue ceramic collection
To mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, they decided to paint their key models blue. Why blue? Zenith means star peak or highest point, symbolising perfection and precision. Their pilot’s watches and the aforementioned historical connections with astronomy have a common theme: the sky. It is therefore not surprising that on this occasion, the Pilot Big Date Flyback, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Chronomaster Sport models are available in blue ceramic. Pigmentation of ceramic is an extremely demanding process, and the final result on the Zenith 160th Anniversary Edition timepieces emphasises the brand’s identity.
